Ernest Hemingway and wine

21 July is Ernest Hemingway’s birthday. We love him not only because he once said, “I drink to make other people more interesting.” We ourselves often use Ernest’s quote as an excuse... Another stroke of genius is the following excerpt concerning wine from the superb novel Death in the Afternoon. Savour it with us: “Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment and appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing which may be purchased. One can learn about wines, and pursue the education of one’s palate with great enjoyment all of a lifetime, the palate becoming more educated and capable of appreciation and you having constantly increasing enjoyment and appreciation of wine even though the kidneys may weaken, the big toe become painful, the finger joints stiffen, until finally, just when you love it the most you are finally forbidden wine entirely... Our bodies all wear out in some way and we die, and I would rather have a palate that will give me the pleasure of enjoying completely a Chateau Margaux or a Haut Brion, even though excesses indulged in the acquiring of it has brought a liver that will not allow me to drink Richebourg, Corton, or Chambertin, than to have the corrugated iron internals of my boyhood when all red wines were bitter except port and drinking was the processing of getting down enough of anything to make you feel reckless. The thing, of course, is to avoid having to give up wine entirely. But there seems to be much luck in all these things and no man can avoid death by honest effort nor say what use any part of this body will bear until he tries it... In wine, most people at the start prefer sweet vintages, Sauternes, Graves, Barsac, and sparkling wines, such as not too dry Champagne and sparkling Burgundy because of their picturesque quality while later they would trade all these for a light but full and fine example of the Grand crus of Medoc, though it may be in a plain bottle without label, dust, or cobwebs, with nothing picturesque, but only its honesty and delicacy and the light body of it on your tongue, cool in your mouth and warm when you have drunk it.”

A visit to the Jacques Selosse domain

Anselme Selosse’s wines provoke controversial reactions. His fans consider them among the finest of Champagnes, while his detractors think they do not belong to Champagne at all. Anselme, who took over the family domain from his father Jacques in 1980, is labelled a revolutionary, rebel, visionary, pioneer, or the “Wizard from Avize”. Instead of studying oenology at home in Avize, where he would have learned the traditional approaches to Champagne production, meaning the blending and finishing of wines, he went to study in Burgundy at the famous Lycée Viticole. Here he acquired information about the methods of vinification in Burgundy, which focus on the terroir, and attended seminars on ecology. After studying in Burgundy, he moved to the Rioja region of Spain. Here he became familiar with the solera method used to produce sherry, and discovered what effect the longer training of wine in casks has on its expression. He then applied all these concepts at home in the production of Champagne, essentially tearing down all the established boundaries in the process. A wine tasting at the Jacques Selosse winery in the presence of Anselme was among our very best experiences in Champagne. The tasting was even attended by Peter Liem, authorof the blog www.champagneguide.net and currently one of the most respected authors devoted to the Champagne region and its wines.

You can watch Anselme’s artful dégorgement à la volée, meaning disgorgement of the lees by hand, in the attached video.